Austin 7 Workshop Manual Doug Woodrow
Hi Frode, yes, the Companion is useful but I would draw your attention to the following publication which is, virtually, the Austin 7 workshop manual. The Austin Seven Manual. By Doug Woodrow. (commonly refered to as 'the red book) Fully recommended for the d-i-y enthusiast.
This is an all embracing workshop manual covering 'Seven' models from 1925 to 1939, but does not adequately cover the 'Big Seven'. The sections deal with the Engine; Fuel System; Gearbox; Prop Shaft; Rear Axle; Front Suspension; Steering; Hubs & Brakes; Road Springs; Chassis; Electrical, and Accessories. Each section is divided into periods ie 1923-28, 1928-1932, 1932-35, although not always these years. Within each section are subsections on Dismantling and Assembly.
Diagrams support the step by step easy to follow text, but the only problem is that the text does not cite the letter identifying the part in the diagram, so there is a need to have a reasonable technical knowledge in order to use it. By the late Doug Woodrow, published by and available from Mercury Vintage Services, Rosedale, Station Road, Emneth, Norfolk PE14 8DL. Tel: 58 e-mail: woodrow@mercuryvintage.freeserve.co.uk. Also available from here Ref. BT802 Expect to pay around 50 GBP + postage. Dismantling rear hubs.
Here is a quick guide; but see relevant pages in here also. For the rear wheel brakes remove the axle shaft nut, having first taken out the split pin, and extract the outer portion of the hub by screwing the extractor on the screwed end, and turning the extractor bolt which bears on the end of the axle shaft. Remove the key from its keyway in the axle shaft. Next remove the bearing nut, having knocked back the tang of the washer locking it, and prise the inner portion of the hub or felt housing together with felt packing and bearing, off the end of the axle casing.
Of “The Austin Seven Manual” by Doug Woodrow. If you would like a copy, price £48 please ring Sheila 63 A.S.A.P. Significantly impaired for some time! Austin Seven Workshop Manual by AUSTIN MOTOR COMPANY LIMITED., Austin Motor Company Limited edition, in English. The Austin Seven Manual by Doug Woodrow. Pricing & History. Start Free Trial or Sign In to see what it's worth. Sold Date; Source eBay UK. Austin Seven manual by Doug Woodrow. Book is as new in immaculate condition.
Do not damage the paper washer between the-hub and the felt housing faces, as it is important to make a good joint on reassembling, to prevent the hub lubricant penetrating to the brake. If this inner portion of the hub does not easily come off the axle casing, the outer half should be refitted as closely as possible, using the wheel nuts to draw the two halves together. Then use the hub extractor a second time, and so remove the hub together with bearing and packing. The brake shoes can now be pulled off the cam and pivot pin and the springs unhooked. Location: Shropshire. Regarding rear hub removal.
You need a very useful tool, a hub puller. Also spanners and an 'anti rotation device' for hub. 1) Put 7 on axle stand on the the side you are removing. 2) Chock front wheels 3) Remove rear wheel 4) Undo the 3 screws and remove brake drum 5) Bolt anti rotation device to 2 wheel studs to counter rotation of 1/2 shaft nut, by using two wheel nuts inverted 6) Remove 1/2 shaft nut 7) Reverse the direction of anti rotation device, so that it counters the tightening of the hub puller onto the hub.
Austin 7 Workshop Manual Doug Woodrow
Again tighten on wheel nuts inverted. 8) Screw hub puller onto the large thread on the outside of the hub 9) Ensure it is tightened on more that 3 revolutions so that this thread does not get damaged when tightening centre pushing bolt 10) With anti rotation device countering push-bolt rotation, tighten push-bolt Be careful the tightening force does not jack car off the axlestand via the reaction by the anti rotation device At this point the hub should be pulled off the 1/2 shaft taper. If you don't have a hub puller, I am sure these will be available from various suppliers. The 'anti rotation device' that I use is two pieces of angle iron welded together at 90 degrees to form an L.
Something like 30 x 30 x 5mm does the trick. The long side of the L needs to be about 1 metre in length to lessen the jacking forces on the car. There needs to be two holes dia 10.5mm drilled, one either side of the apex of the L. These are drilled to suit the wheel studs, taking into account the boss diameter on the hub, and the spacings (PCD) of the studs. The angle iron L has to sit hard up against the flange face and mount over two of the wheel studs. This tool is particularly important when tightening the hubs onto the 1/2 shafts as these need to be Very TIGHT!
One of the Achilles' heels of A7's! It is possible to use a long lever jammed beneath the wheelstud and the hub boss, rather than going to the effort of making the above tool. This is a dodgy and dangerous practice! One I never do. The reason being that the wheel stud can easily get bent and therefore is likely to break under a high load cornering situation. Not desirable when you only have three.!
It is also highly likely that you will damage the thread requiring another hub. Regards John Edit, posted before I had seen the above post.
Location: Shaketown, New Zealand. John, For the rear hub- 9) Ensure it is tightened on more that 3 revolutions so that this thread does not get damaged when tightening centre pushing bolt Then of course you must pull off the two wheel nuts holding the anti rotation device so the hub is released from the back bearing housing!!! 10) With anti rotation device countering push-bolt rotation, tighten push-bolt My 'anti rotation device' is an old hub back plate piece, with a bar welded on. This will stay in place even when not held on by wheel nuts. Location: Malvern, Melbourne, Australia. Good comment Tony, although in reality when you tighten the push bolt and break the taper, the axle is being pushed inwards. My preference is to keep the nuts tight until the taper is broken.
This way you have no risk of deforming the threads on the wheel studs. By having the nuts tight the load is taken as a friction joint via the flange to angle iron interface.
Austin 7 Workshop Manual Doug Woodrow School
I should point out here that I have run very powerful 7's years ago in the UK. One of my issues was in keeping good hub joints. The times that were hard on these, were either Trialling or doing Driving Tests, much more so than when I was racing. Because of this I always ensure I have very good key to keyway joints, lap the hubs onto the tapers, and fit the hubs to the 1/2 shafts in a hot i.e. Expanded state, so that the hub is a tighter fit than if fitted cold. I also do the nuts up very tight and re-check them frequently for the first few hundred miles thereafter.
Hence my concern with good anti rotation devices and stud damage. Location: Shaketown, New Zealand.